Two easy-but-epic traybake dinners
Cacio e pepe Jersey Royals and beans + baked tomato gnocchi with burrata
I’m ready for a flavour reset. At this time of year I become increasingly fed up of the endless soups and stews, made with the same root vegetables and pulses. I want food with a bit more zest and zing. The problem is, while spring is starting, ever so tentatively, to rear its head, it will be a few weeks before the first British asparagus or tender broad beans will start to appear, bringing with them the promise of warmer days to come.
I did manage to get my hands on some early-season Jersey Royals this week, with their papery skins and fudgy, buttery flavour. The recipe I made with them is one of those dishes that I know I’ll be making on repeat while these seasonal spuds are around. A creamy, lemony cannellini bean and spring green sauce-meets-stew is topped with Jersey Royals, smashed with the back of a mug for maximum craggly texture, then finished with a snow-shower of parmesan before the whole lot is baked in the same pan until golden and bubbling.
Before late spring produce is in abundance, I’m also relying on pantry ingredients that sing with sunnier flavours. Cue my baked tomato gnocchi, which is so easy, it really shouldn’t taste as good as it does. A jar of mixed Italian antipasti gives the tomato sauce richness, while baking the gnocchi gives it a golden, crunchy texture. Plus, the whole lot can be assembled in less than 5 minutes.
Two easy, one-tray dinners that, even as hailstones fell this weekend, act as a reminder that you won’t be eating soup forever. Come on, spring – we’re so ready for you.
Smashed cacio e pepe Jersey Royals and cannellini beans
Calling this cacio e pepe is a bit cheeky (Italians, look away now) but it’s more of a reference to the umami, cheesy, peppery flavour notes it hits. You can find early season Jersey Royals in bigger M&S shops at the moment, or try your local farmer’s market. If you can’t get them, simply substitute for new potatoes, halving any larger ones.
Serves 2 + a little person
550g Jersey Royals
1 tbsp butter
3 large-headed spring onions (or 1 normal onion) sliced
2 cloves garlic
1 tin (400g) cannellini beans
A small bunch of spring greens, stalks removed, roughly chopped
Zest of 1 lemon
4 tbsp cream cheese
2 tbsp parmesan
Boil the potatoes in a pan of salted boiling water for 10-15 minutes, until just tender. Drain and allow to steam dry.
Preheat the oven to 180C fan.
Meanwhile, heat a shallow ovenproof pan on the hob over a medium heat and add the butter and a tiny splash of olive oil. Sweat the onions for 5-6 minutes, until soft, before adding the garlic. Cook for another 2 minutes, until fragrant.
Add the cannellini beans along with their water, the lemon zest and the greens. Cook for another 2-3 minutes, just until the greens have wilted and cooked down slightly. Turn off the heat and stir in the cream cheese. Season generously with black pepper and salt to taste.
Once the potatoes are ready, roughly crush with the back of a mug to flatten slightly. Arrange on top of the beans and grate over the parmesan. Drizzle with olive oil then bake for 15-20 minutes, until golden and bubbling.
Baked tomato gnocchi
Serves 2 + a little person
3 cloves garlic
1 tin (400g) chopped tomatoes
1 red onion, roughly chopped
1 jar (300g) Italian mixed antipasti
1 pack (500g) potato gnocchi
Preheat the oven to 180C fan. Add the garlic, chopped tomatoes, onion and antipasti to an ovenproof dish. Season with salt and pepper. Bake for 25 minutes, until reduced. Taste to check the seasoning.
Add the gnocchi to the tray and return to the oven for a further 10 minutes, or until the gnocchi is cooked through and starting to go golden on top. Serve with parmesan, if you like.
The baby step
Both of these dishes went down well with my toddler. Go easy on the salt in the potato dish and fork-mash to the right consistency for your little one. In the gnocchi, make sure olives are finely chopped, and be mindful of the seasoning. If the antipasti is a bit too strong for your little ones, this would work equally well with just the tomatoes, onion and garlic. Throw in some frozen peas at the end for extra greens, if uou and mash to your baby’s desired consistency as needed.
PS This week I’m loving…
My go-to oven-to-table pan is this spun-iron one, a generous birthday present a few years ago from Shropshire-based Netherton Foundry. I’ve had it for years, and it’s becoming more non-stick over time, despite my less-than-exemplary attitude to seasoning it. Not cheap but honestly will last a lifetime.